Ultimate Lapland Winter Guide: Best Places to Visit, Where to Stay & How to See the Northern Lights
- tripuntraveled
- Nov 2
- 16 min read
Updated: Nov 4
There’s snow on your eyelashes, frost on your hair, reindeer on the road, and silence so still it feels like the whole world is holding its breath. That’s Lapland!
Lapland isn’t just one place. It stretches across the northern tips of Finland, Sweden, Norway, and even a corner of Russia. But for most travelers, it’s Finnish Lapland that captures the imagination...a land of reindeer, log cabins, glass igloos, the official home of Santa Claus, and northern lights.
It’s also where I learned that cold can feel comforting, that the night sky is best when it's neon green, red, pink, and purple, and that sometimes, adventure means slowing down enough to hear snowflakes land.
Last winter, I spent about 2 months in the Arctic, including the Finnish Lapland. In this blog, I’ll share my exact (Finnish) Lapland winter itinerary - from where to stay, what experiences are worth the price tag, how to get around, and the best experiences you simply can’t miss.
Table of contents
Days 1-2: Rovaniemi
Day 3: Ranua
Day 4: Riisitunturi National Park
Days 5-6: Ruka, Kuusamo & Oulanka National Park
Day 7: Pyhä-Luosto National Park
Days 8-9: Saariselkä & Ivalo
Day 10: Inari
Day 11: Levi
Day 12: Ylläs
Day 13: Kemi
Day 14: Return to Rovaniemi
How to go Northern Lights hunting yourself
Before you go
How to get to Lapland
I was on a grand Arctic roadtrip so I drove in from Norway but most of you will probably fly in from Helsinki or straight to Rovaniemi.
By train
They say that the most magical way to reach Lapland is the overnight Santa Claus Express operated by VR (Finnish Railways). The train departs Helsinki each evening and arrives in Rovaniemi the next morning. Cabins include beds, a restaurant car, Wi‑Fi and optional showers…you can wake up to snowy spruce forests without having to drive.
By plane
Several airlines operate year‑round flights from Helsinki to Rovaniemi and Kittilä. Finnair and Norwegian fly daily, while seasonal carriers like EasyJet and KLM add direct connections from cities such as London, Paris and Amsterdam.
Getting around Lapland
Self‑drive (my recommendation)
Road‑tripping in Lapland gives you maximum freedom to chase the northern lights, experience the arctic wilderness, and visit smaller villages. Finnish Arctic roads are cleared regularly, BUT... drive slow, watch out for black ice, stay cautious, and book a proper winterized vehicle (studded tyres, heating, snow brush).
I used rentalcars which included winter tyres, unlimited mileage, and snow removal tools. Renting a car equipped for winter driving is EXTREMELY important!
Distances between towns can be long, so keep your tank topped up and don’t underestimate how quickly darkness falls or weather changes.
Public transport
If driving in snow worries you, you can still see Lapland by combining trains, buses and occasional taxis or private transfers.
Note that connections can be limited outside peak season and some legs may require taxi transfers, so build in buffer days.
Best Time to Visit
Winter in Lapland spans late October to April. December and early January are atmospheric with Christmas vibezzz and deep blue light during the polar nights, but tourism peaks mean high prices. In March, days are longer, temperatures are milder and skies are clearer. If seeing the northern lights is a priority, aim for dark, long, and cloud‑free nights and stay at least three nights in the same area.
Temperature
Expect between -5°C to -30°C (23°F to -22°F). March is “warm” by Lapland standards.
What to pack
Thermal base layers (merino wool works best)
Fleece mid layers
Outer layers - insulated down jacket and snow pants
Waterproof snow boots with grip
Wool socks, balaclava and beanie
Touchscreen gloves and mittens
Warmers
Headlamp and spare batteries
Tripod to capture the aurora (yes, even for your phone)
Power bank and travel adapter
Alternatively you can rent winter clothing in Lapland here
My Tip - Avoid cotton at all costs, it will freeze you. Also, you NEED gloves + mittens in thick winters. |
14‑Day Lapland Itinerary (plus options to shorten or extend)
I've spent over 2 weeks zigzagging across Finnish Lapland, chasing the northern lights, meeting reindeer, and discovering what makes this frozen wonderland so special. Whether you follow this route exactly or cherry-pick your favorite days, you'll find practical tips, honest recommendations, and the kind of insider info that only comes from actually doing it. Here is the route:
DAYS 1 & 2 – ROVANIEMI
You can board the Santa Claus Express in Helsinki and wake up in Rovaniemi just after sunrise. If you’re flying, Rovaniemi Airport is 10 minutes from the town..
Day 1 - Rovaniemi
9 am - Arrive in Rovaniemi and pick up your rental car
10 am - Explore the Santa Claus Village and cross the Arctic Circle line
2 pm - Lunch at Santa's Salmon Place
4 pm - Check into your accommodation (glass igloo, cabin, or hotel near Ounasvaara Hill)
8 pm - Dinner at Ravintola Nili for traditional Lappish fine dining
10 pm - Go looking for northern lights on your own or join a small group tour
Day 2 - Rovaniemi
10 am - Reindeer safari or a farm visit with a local Sami family (avoid large tour farms)
12 pm - Lunch at Café & Bar 21
2 pm - Visit the Arktikum Museum
5 pm - Finnish sauna
8 pm - Dinner at Sky Kitchen and View
10 pm - Go looking for aurora at Ounasvaara hill
Top experiences
Santa Claus Village & Arctic Circle – Yes, it’s touristy, but strolling through Santa’s post office, meeting the big man and standing astride the glowing Arctic Circle line is pure fun. The village is open every day of the year, so even in March you could mail postcards with an Arctic Circle stamp.
Arktikum & science museums – This is a beautifully designed museum that explains Arctic nature and Sami culture. The glass corridor pointing northwards is perfect for aurora on clear nights.
Local cuisine – Try lingonberry cocktails at Restaurant Nili. For something casual, Roka Kitchen does fantastic sandwiches and local craft beer.
p.s. Don’t forget to get your arctic crossing certificate p.p.s. Don’t miss the northern lights forest path behind the village; there’s no guarantee, but the open space improves your chances of catching the aurora. |
Where to Stay
Arctic TreeHouse Hotel has cozy timber suites and panoramic windows facing the forest. Alternatively, Glass Resort is EPIC with fully glazed igloos. Both are pricey but magical for a first night.
Public transport option
You don’t need a car in Rovaniemi. Shuttle buses run to Santa Claus Village and to other spots. The train station and bus station are side by side, and most hotels offer airport transfers.
My Tip: Skip the big tour groups, rent a car and drive 15–20 minutes out of town for a private Aurora experience at Ounasvaara Hill or Arktikum Beach. |
DAY 3 – RANUA
Ranua is about 80 km south of Rovaniemi. It’s roughly an hour drive; otherwise a bus connects the two towns. Ranua can also be visited on a guided day trip from Rovaniemi.
Day 3
9 am – Drive from Rovaniemi to Ranua (about 1 hour)
10 am – Visit the Ranua Wildlife Park
1 pm – Lunch at Wild Arctic Restaurant inside the wildlife park
2:30 pm – Snowshoe or walk around Lake Ranuanjärvi near Ranua Resort
4 pm – Check into your accommodation
7 pm – Dinner at the resort’s restaurant or Ranua Zoo Restaurant for Lappish comfort food
9 pm – Go looking for northern lights or join a local guided Aurora snowmobile tour
Top experiences
Ranua Wildlife Park – Ranua Wildlife Park is home to over 50 Arctic species, including Finland’s only polar bear, but you can also see arctic foxes, lynx and snowy owls. Plan at least half a day and wear proper shoes as the paths can be snowy.
Local bakery stop – Pop into Ranua Guesthouse's Café for cinnamon buns and cloudberry jam. Ranua also has a small berry wine factory where you can sample award‑winning cloudberry wine.
Where to Stay
Ranua Resort Arctic Igloos on the lakeshore. Waking up to sunrise over frozen Lake Ranuanjärvi was a highlight.
DAY 4 – RIISITUNTURI NATIONAL PARK
From Ranua, I drove 1.5 hours to Riisitunturi National Park. Without a car you can base yourself in Ruka/Kuusamo and join a guided snowshoeing tour to Riisitunturi. Tours include transfers (about 40 min each way from Ruka) and gear.
Why go? This is one of the most surreal places I’ve ever seen in my life!!!! where trees are buried so deep in snow that they turn into otherworldly “snow ghosts.”
Snowshoeing is the best way to explore the national park and the entrance is free. There are several different trails, so pick the right one for you and stay on the path. Tours typically last 3-6 hours and cover 4-8 km.
Where to Stay
Ruka Valley has modern apartments at the foot of the ski slopes and cottages.
DAYS 5 & 6 – RUKA, KUUSAMO & OULANKA NATIONAL PARK
Ruka ski resort is 45 minutes south of Riisitunturi and 25 minutes from Kuusamo Airport. If you are taking public transport, buses connect Kuusamo airport and Ruka; there are also bus connections from Rovaniemi.
Day 5
9 am – Drive 1 hour 15 min from Riisitunturi to Ruka Village
10:30 am – Check into your accommodation
11 am – Take the gondola to the top of Ruka fells for stunning Arctic views
1 pm – Grab a quick lunch at RUOK or Hanki Baari
2:30 pm – You can go skiing or relax in a sauna/spa
7 pm – Dinner at Riipinen Wild Game Restaurant
9 pm – Optional evening snowmobile safari or go looking for northern lights
Day 6
8 am – Breakfast in Ruka and prepare for one of the best winter hike
9 am – Drive 35 min to Oulanka National Park Visitor Centre
9:45 am – Start the winter Pieni Karhunkierros Trail (Little Bear Trail) from Juuma entrance and hike through bridges, gorges, and frozen waterfalls
3 pm – Drive back to Ruka Village
4 pm – Late lunch or early dinner at Colorado Mts Bar & Grill
6 pm – Experience night skiing
8:30 pm – Dinner or drinks at Ravintola Vespino or Classic Pizza Ruka
10 pm – Step outside your hotel to catch northern lights if skies are clear
Top experiences
Ruka ski resort – Ruka is famous for its long ski season (October–May) and has variety of slopes for all levels. Beyond skiing and snowboarding, Ruka offers ice fishing, snowshoe hikes and more.
Pieni Karhunkierros (Little Bear Trail) – Hike the best trail in Finland with suspension bridges, icy waterfalls, and breathtaking views.
Visit Myllykoski Rapids and Kiutaköngäs Falls
End the trip with a cozy sauna at Basecamp Oulanka
Where to Stay
You can stay in Ski-in, Ski-outs or Iisakki Village on Lake Rukajärvi offers log cabins and a lakeside sauna.
DAYS 7 – PYHÄ‑LUOSTO NATIONAL PARK
From Ruka, continue 2.5 hours to Luosto, Lapland’s most underrated gem.
Day 7
9 am – Drive from Ruka to Luosto
11:30 am – Visit the Lampivaara Amethyst Mine and go for a guided dig experience
1:30 pm – Lunch at Vaisko Restaurant in Luosto
3 pm – Explore Pyhä–Luosto National Park and walk the Isokuru Gorge winter trail
5 pm – Check into your accommodation
7:30 pm – Dinner at Aurora Restaurant with fell and aurora views
9:30 pm – Go northern lights hunting
Top experiences
Lampivaara Amethyst Mine – Finland’s only operating amethyst mine sits atop a fell (mountain or a hill) in the national park. Cars are not allowed...you either snowshoe, ski or ride the heated “amethyst pendolino” up the hill and you can dig your own gemstone
Cross‑country skiing & fatbiking – The Pyhä–Luosto region has about 150 km of ski trails
Hike to the frozen waterfalls in Isokuru Gorge
Sauna & Northern Lights – After a day outdoors, nothing beats sweating in a wood‑fired sauna then rolling in powder snow under the northern lights.
Where to Stay
Santa’s Hotel Aurora in Luosto with beautiful glass‑roofed rooms and a lovely restaurant. Alternatively, Pyhä Igloos has cosy apartments at the base of the slopes.
DAYS 8, 9, & 10 – SAARISELKÄ, IVALO, & INARI
I drove about 2.5 hours north to Saariselkä while it was snowing and WOW was it magical. After checking in (which was an interesting process to say the least), I ran out because I spotted the northern lights! The air temperature dropped to –27 °C that night and the air was sparkling beautifully while my hair was frozen in the hot tub.
Day 8
9 am – Drive from Luosto to Saariselkä via Sodankylä
11:30 am – Stop at Kaunispää Hill Café for coffee and views over the fells (try Finland’s longest toboggan run here - it's so fun!)
1 pm – Go horseback riding in snow
4 pm – Check into your accommodation, go for a sauna, and try rolling in the snow
7:30 pm – Dinner at Laanilan Kievari or Petronella
8:30 pm – Join a heated sleigh ride for private northern lights tour in the forest
Day 9
9 am – Breakfast
10 am – Go ice karting (this was my favorite)
11:30 am – Go ice fishing and enjoy lunch cooked on open fire
2 pm – Visit a small ethical husky farm
6:30 pm – Dinner at Restaurant Kultahippu
8:30 pm – Go looking for the northern lights
Day 10
9 am – Drive (40 min from Ivalo) to Inari
10 am – Take a snowmobile tour across frozen Lake Inari to Ukko Island
12:30 pm – Lunch at Restaurant Aanaar
2 pm – Visit the Sámi Parliament House and Sámi Duodji Handicraft Shop
4 pm – Check into your hotel
5 pm – Relax for a bit and sauna
8 pm – Dinner at your hotel’s restaurant
10 pm – Go for a snowshoe walk on the frozen lake for northern lights
Top experiences
Arctic activities – Saariselkä is a winter playground. I joined a husky safari, tried ice karting and took a snowmobile excursion to a frozen lake.
Kaunispää Hill & toboggan run – Take the chairlift to the top of Kaunispää for panoramic views and then whizz down Finland’s longest toboggan run.
Siida – Sámi Museum and Nature Centre which preserves the spiritual and material of the Finnish Sámi culture.
Lake Inari activities – Known locally as the Sámi Sea, the lake freezes solid in winter. You can go snowmobiling to a secluded island for ice fishing and have lunch over an open fire.
Try a traditional Sámi dinner (slow-cooked reindeer stew if you eat meat).
Where to Stay
I based myself at Aurora Collection in Saariselkä; its glass igloos come with private saunas. Also check out Aurora Queen Resort Igloos. In Ivalo, Aurora Village Ivalo is a good option. Wilderness Hotel Inari cabins have floor‑to‑ceiling windows overlooking the frozen lake, and the onsite restaurant serves excellent food.
DAY 11 – LEVI
From Inari, head south about three hours to Levi.
Day 11
9 am – Drive from Inari to Levi
12:30 pm – Check into your accommodation (or do this later in the day).
1 pm – Lunch at Chef's Burger or Colorado Bar & Grill in Levi Village
2 pm – Visit the Elves Village (Tonttula)
4:30 pm – Visit Arcandia
7 pm – Explore Levi Village or relax at a spa
8 pm – Dinner at Saamen Kammi or NiliPoro for traditional dishes
10 pm – Go looking for aurora (you know the drill!)
Top experiences
Outdoor adventures – Levi is Lapland’s Spa & Ski Capital. In winter you can snowmobile through woods, snowshoe across fells, go ice floating and take husky or reindeer safaris.
Sauna & spa culture – Don’t miss Levi’s sauna world; there’s a traditional smoke sauna, snow sauna and Arctic waters for ice dips.
Dining & nightlife – The village is packed with restaurants and bars. I loved Saamen Kammi famous for traditional Lappish dinner served in a turf hut, and NiliPoro for Lappish-style fine dining.
Where to Stay
Design Hotel Levi has stylish rooms with floor‑to‑ceiling windows. For a bucket‑list stay, Levin Iglut offers glass igloos on a hill outside town.
DAY 12 – YLLÄS
Ylläs is very close to Levi. With a car it’s an easy drive! You can just stay in Levi and combine the activities that work for you.
Day 12
9 am – Drive 45 min from Levi to Ylläs
9:45 am – Explore Ylläsjärvi village and ride the gondola up Ylläs Fell for awesome views and go fatbiking
1 pm – Grab lunch
2 pm – Visit the Snow Village to see the snow hotel rooms, ice sculptures, and ice bar
4:30 pm – Check into your accommodation
7 pm – Dinner at Saaga
9 pm – End your night with northern lights (hopefully)
Top experiences
Fatbiking & winter cycling – Ylläs has extensive winter bike trails. Rent a fatbike and pedal along the beautiful paths through the fell.
Stop by Elves village
Arcandia Adventure Park
SnowVillage – Visit the Lainio SnowVillage, rebuilt every year with ice sculptures, an ice restaurant and even an ice hotel
Northern Lights dinner at Ylläskammi – A tracked snowcat takes you to the summit of Ylläs for a candlelit dinner at 719 m.
Public transport tip: If you’re traveling without a car, check Matkahuolto’s Trips and Tickets app for bus schedules. Airport shuttle buses operate on demand outside high season and the daily Ylläs–Levi bus runs via SnowVillage from late December to early April. |
DAY 13 – KEMI
I’d say this one is optional and about a 3h drive down from Ylläs and close to the Sweden border.
Day 13
9 am – Drive 2 hr 45 min from Ylläs to Kemi
12 pm – Visit the SnowCastle of Kemi
1:30 pm – Lunch at Lumihiutale Seaview Restaurant overlooking the frozen Gulf of Bothnia
3 pm – Icebreaker Cruise from Kemi Harbor and experience sailing through the frozen sea, including floating in survival suits
6:30 pm – Check into your accommodation
8 pm – Dinner at Ankkuri
10 pm – Walk along the frozen harbor and look for northern lights
Top experiences
Explore the SnowCastle of Kemi, made of real ice and snow
Take the Arktis or Sampo Icebreaker Cruise and float in the frozen sea in a survival suit (though this one wasn’t worth the cost)
Where to Stay
Seaside Glass Villas are modern igloo‑style cabins on the seafront. Watching the sunrise over the frozen sea from my bed was magical.
DAY 14 – RETURN TO ROVANIEMI
From Kemi it’s a 1.5‑hour drive back to Rovaniemi. Spend your last night souvenir shopping, relaxing in a sauna or enjoying one more aurora hunt before flying or taking the train south.
How to go Northern Lights hunting yourself
Now that you have your days mapped out, here comes the part everyone asks about. How to see the Northern Lights on your own without a tour? When to go out, what numbers to watch for, which apps to check, and what are the best places to see it in Finnish Lapland?
Here's everything you need to know from my experience.
Cloud cover
Clear and dark skies are the MOST important. If it is overcast, save your energy for another night or drive elsewhere if you can. A lot of times you can find clear skies just 30 minutes from you.
Aurora strength
Look for your location's Kp index in the app. It means how active the aurora is.
Kp 0 to 2 means low activity and the skies need to be very dark.
Kp 3 to 4 is good.
Kp 5 or higher is excellent.
Solar wind and magnetic conditions
Solar wind speed is another super important metric you need to track in the app. Normal is about 300 to 400 kilometers per second. Anything above 400 is better...higher solar wind speed means better chances to see the lights.
Bz is the north and south direction of the solar magnetic field near Earth. You want Bz to be negative and to stay negative for a while.
Helpful apps you need
Use one app for aurora alerts and data and one app for clouds. Options that work well are:
My Aurora Forecast
SpaceWeatherLive
Aurora Alert Realtime
Yr.no
MeteoBlue
You do not need all of them, two or three is enough. My favorite combo apps are My Aurora Forecast and Yr.no.
Your nightly aurora hunting routine
Pick a two to three hour window between 9 pm and 3 am.
Check cloud cover to drive toward the clearest area you can reach.
Confirm the aurora activity. Check for Kp index, solar wind speed rising and Bz staying negative.
Go to a dark spot with an open horizon.
Check the sky every few minutes. You can also use your phone's camera to quickly check for colored skies till your eyes adjust.
Best places to see the Northern Lights in Finnish Lapland
You can see aurora anywhere that is dark and clear above the Arctic Circle line. Keep in mind that Aurora is a natural phenomenon and is never guaranteed...but these areas can give you higher odds when in Finnish Lapland:
Kilpisjärvi and the far northwest is very dark and often clear.
Inari, Ivalo, Utsjoki, and Saariselkä are right under the auroral zone.
Levi and Ylläs are large ski areas but there are many dark pullouts a short drive from the village lights.
Rovaniemi region but go further away from the city lights.
Quick camera settings
You NEED a tripod both for your camera or phone.
If you are using a camera, start with ISO 1600 to 3200, aperture f2.8 to f4, shutter 5 to 15 seconds. Shorten the shutter if the aurora is moving fast so you keep the structure sharp or else your photos will have motion blur.
With a phone, use night mode and hold it steady on a rock, bag, or tripod.
Tips & mistakes to avoid
Don’t underestimate driving times – Distances are longer than they look on a map and snow slows you down. Always have snacks, water, proper layers, and a charged phone.
Verify the opening hours for all tours/experiences/restaurants/etc I shared depending on when you are visiting.
Plan for short daylight – In December the sun barely peeks above the horizon. Schedule outdoor activities accordingly between 10 am and 1 pm and pack a headlamp.
Christmas week is magical but expensive.
Book igloos and tours early if a specific one is a MUST for you. Since I was on a roadtrip, I booked everything last minute on the go...faced no availability issues for anything I wanted to do in December.
Support Sámi‑owned businesses – When booking reindeer or cultural experiences, choose companies run by Sámi families to ensure authenticity and respect.
Don’t rent a car if you can’t drive in snow - it can be dangerous. Always check the weather conditions before heading out. |
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a car in Lapland? No, but it helps. You can travel by train and bus using Matkahuolto’s Trips and Tickets app, yet some legs have limited services. If you’re comfortable driving in snow, renting a car offers more flexibility for aurora hunting and remote national parks. It also helps save money because you don't need a tour for everything!
Can I see the northern lights in Rovaniemi? Sometimes. Rovaniemi sits just on the Arctic Circle, so auroras occur but light pollution and cloud cover can reduce visibility. For better chances head to more remote areas like Saariselkä or Inari.
How cold does it get? Temperatures range from –5 °C to –30 °C. Dress in layers and bring rechargeable hand warmers.
What’s worth the money? Here are my thoughts on that!
Final thoughts
Visiting Finnish Lapland in winter was one of the most extraordinary trips I’ve ever taken. From experiencing polar night to standing on the frozen Gulf of Bothnia in a survival suit, every day was different.
I hope this guide helps you plan your own trip…whether you’re traveling solo, with friends or with your family. If you found it useful, share it with someone who dreams of seeing the northern lights.
Feel free to drop me a message on Instagram at @tripuntraveled or check out the unique places I share around the world (although, not gonna lie - I am currently living in my Europe era!)
Safe travels, and may the auroras dance for you!
Thanks for reading!
If you have any questions, thoughts, or concerns, leave it in the comments below and I'll get back to you (I read them all!).
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